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Week in Reviews

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mamietaylorsmini.jpgRested after the holidays Alexandra Gill takes out her blade to carve up Chinatown hotspot, Mamie Taylor's. Gill softens us up, saying the 'throwback menu" when executed well... (is) extremely satisfying' praising the 'fantastically addictive' smoked veal tongue Monte Cristo and 'crunchy pillow of down-home bliss' fried chicken. Alas, bacon-wrapped oysters are 'streaked with bitter green gunk' and sweet and sour meatballs 'intensely awful.' Gill's final judgement: "When the chef sticks to the standards, his cooking is quite comforting. But when he tries to experiment, the food is like a disco queen on acid." [Globe & Mail]